Instructions to Create Replacement Tombstones
Donated by Charles 'the Bonedigger'
If you would like to ask the contributor a question, send Charles an e-mail here Friends and fellow genealogists: Just now completed a project and wanted to share the details with others who may want to undertake same for their unmarked Ancestor's graves. I did this on the cheap as is most always the case with me. Cost me no more than about $10.00, if we got down to specifics I used scrap lumber so it may have been less. 1]. Build a frame to hold the concrete in place until it cures. 2]. Cut out letters and numbers. 3]. Glue the numbers inside the form you built in 1, above. Very Important: Glue the letters as if you were looking thru the wood to the letters. In other words the glue goes on the front of the letters not on the back as you would normally glue on stuff. Use the kind of glue that you set floor tiles with for two reasons: a] it holds firmly until the concrete is poured b] it releases as soon as the concrete is cured but the impressions are lasting and as deep as the thickness that you made the letters. Imagine for a minute that the front of the form is glass and you are looking thru the glass to the interior of the form what you see is the writing you want to put on the marker just as you want to read it. Keep this thought in mind as you are gluing the letters in place. 4]. Important Tip When you have the form made and letters glued into place [glue has set] take a paint brush and spread oil, about a 30 weight heavy oil all over the letters and front side inside of the form so the concrete will not stick to the letters or to the front side of the form. If desired oil the whole inside for ease of operations. Use enough oil so the letters will not stick to the concrete. 5]. Mix the concrete a little wetter than you would normally pour a sidewalk then pour it and let the concrete cure for several days probably 3 or more days is best. Then remove the form and voila you have a tombstone with proper looking message that will last until some idiot decides to break it with a sledge hammer or worse. 6]. I put a little reinforcement in my concrete to make it more durable...i.e. two little pieces of pipe running top to bottom inside the form. Or you can use a little grill work e.g. wire mesh or any old steel or iron rods lying around will strenghten the concrete. (Or even old metal coat hangers) 7]. There are many variations you can choose. I cut out the letters on my scroll saw but a band saw will work. Probably you can talk a local friendly woodworker into making the letters free for you. They should be made from 3/8" thick plywood. Letters any thicker would probably be too hard to remove from your forms without damaging the image you want to leave impressed in the concrete. 8]. The form is made from 1"x 6" boards with plywood. Here is a description of the forms: 1 each 1x6x24" vertical each side 2 required 1 each 1x6x18" horizontal each side 2 required Place them into a tee shape, square them and screw them together. The top of the tee is your base so turn it upside down and the top becomes the side of your floor of the form. Cut a piece of plywood 18x18" to tie the two tees together and your floor is finished. Use screws to tie the tees to the plywood floor. Don't use nails anywhere; you don't want to hammer anything to get the forms off when the concrete dries. Cut 2 pieces of plywood approximately 14"x18" for the front and back. this front is where you will stick your letters on. When ready screw them in place [after letters are glued on]. 4 more pieces of plywood finish the form. They will be about 14"x6" to be horizontal and vertical end caps for the ends of the tees. All these are screwed into place. Leave the top open to pour in the concrete mix. This design is based upon 2 bags of concrete mix at approximately $2.00 each at 40 pounds each so the final marker weighs about 90 pounds. I doubt you want anything larger or heavier unless you have help to make it and set it in place. Try it I think you will like it and I would like to hear from you and how yours turned out. I can send you a drawing via attachment if my instructions above are not clear enough. If building a form is too 'involved', a smooth bottom rubber dishpan would also work as a form for a smaller replacement tombstone. Just oil the pan and the numbers and letters really well so they will come out of the concrete when it sets up. Charles the Bonedigger
If you would like to ask the contributor a question, send Charles an e-mail here IMPORTANT NOTES: It is a good idea to check with the cemetery association before placing a replacement stone to learn of any restrictions or requirements. Their contact information can be obtained from an area funeral director or monument company. ADVICE FROM A MONUMENT DEALER: To clean the stones, never use vinegar, shaving cream, wire brush, or any harsh cleaners or scrubbers as this can accelerate the deterioration of what is left of a fragile old tombstone. A monument dealer suggests Dawn (or some other brand) dish soap. She said to soak the stone with water and put the soap on and brush with a gentle scrub brush and then wash off with fresh water. Also To fix tombstones the monument dealer said there is no real way of fixing a sandstone or broken tombstone. She said the best way to do this is to lay a cement base on the ground the size of the tombstone. When it is almost dry to lay the old tombstone on it. Then the stone will be laying flat, above the reach of lawnmowers and still visible.This site is maintained by Joan and was last updated September 2001 Click here to send Joan an e-mail Back to Adams Co WI menu page
